Kuching is starting point, when you are planning to experience remote areas in Borneo's rainforests. Culture and wildlife can be get known to at Batang Ai Nationalpark, where we have spent 3 days at a Lodge, directly next to a longhouse. To live in direct neighborhood to local people offers the possibility to breath the culture. We had no expectation to the live in the forest, and maybe it is the best way to go there: without expectations. The life in this remote area can be defined as very simple and ordinary.
Starting from Kuching is took us about 5 hours by car to reach the the Batang Ai Jetty, where we switched from the car into a boat.
On the way to the Jetty, you may visit a "traditional" market located in Serian. You will pass Serian anyway on your way to the nationalpark. It was our first visit to such a market. And we realized being in a different world latest when we discovered pythons being sold for 12 RM per kg. You may have the opportunity to buy some fruits and vegetables, which looked good and fresh. But the way how they treat still living animals - such as pythons in plastic bags, fishes in tanks without water - is repulsive and disrespecting and made us leaving the market rather sooner than later.
Reaching the Jetty, we finished the very bumpy ride by car and from now on had to rely on the capabilities of local boatmen. The areas can be reached by boat only. It took us about 1.5 hours to get to our final destination in the forrest: Nanga Sumpa Lodge.
During the ride you may already look out for some wildlife. We heard that some of the travelers have seen wild Orang Utans during their cruise. We have seen their nests, unfortunately we have not been lucky meeting one of these beautiful animals at all.
The low tide of the waters in the national park forced us to get out of the boat from time to time in order to pass small rapids. The boatmen pushed the boat through the water at points where the tide was too low for the boat. The recommendation of bringing watershoes to the boat already was definitely helpful.
We have been staying at Nanga Sumpa Lodge, a accommodation run by "Borneo Adventures" for 3 days/2 nights. We knew that we have to restrict our aspiration to a minimum, but the Lodge provides an standard, which is still ok. It was an experience, sleeping in a room, open to the nature with bats and fireflies flying above you all night long. The noise of the jungle is stunning. But the cops of the roosters in the village make you somtimes feeling rather being on a farm than in the jungle. But it is common that the Ban people hold their roosters and hens directly next to their doors.
The meals provided at the lodge where better than we did expect. You will be provided breakfast and dinner. In case you are on a trip during the day, a barbecue will be provided.
Best thing to do in the park is exploring the forest. We went out for several walks during our stay. You always watch out for wildlife, which is really hard to spot in the dense forest.
After the first night in the lodge, we started our tour directly at the village. From there our guide took us through the forest, caoutchouc and rice and pepper fields. We have been pretty shocked seeing burnt forest with now rice or pepper being planted. The guide explained this a a very normal behavior of the local people, regularly burning forests to increase the income for the family. Another thing we did not expect in such remote areas, where you await clean and original jungle, is the degree of pollution, taking place even out there. Plastic waste seems to be an issue everywhere on the world, also in the jungle with very few people living at.
Having our walk finished, we have been picked up by a longboat, which drove us further upriver to a nice waterfall. While the locals prepared a nice barbecue on a traditional way using bamboo to cook rice and vegetables, we had the opportunity to swim at the waterfall. It was a very nice stop and welcome break.
In the afternoon we wanted to go out for a second walk, but we were caught by a thunderstorm. You cannot imagine how soaking wet you get in the rain when you are in the jungle and have no opportunity to hide.
We therefore went back to the lodge where we better enjoyed warm coffee and tea though.
Instead we decided to of out the following day for another walk. Getting up at 5.30am when it is still dark, we were ready to start walking the morning dust already at 6am. We can really recommend doing a morning walk. The temperature is very nice in the mornings, wildlife is still or already going on, and the views over the jungle are amazing in the morning light.
Next to nature and wildlife, we also had the opportunity to learn about the culture and daily life of the locals, who are called Iban. We were invited to a glass of rice wine on our first evening, having had the opportunity of talking to the chief of the village. This catch-up is also organized as the chief always wants to know, who is currently living with the residents.
We have been staying at Nanga Sumpa Lodge, a accommodation run by "Borneo Adventures" for 3 days/2 nights. We knew that we have to restrict our aspiration to a minimum, but the Lodge provides an standard, which is still ok. It was an experience, sleeping in a room, open to the nature with bats and fireflies flying above you all night long. The noise of the jungle is stunning. But the cops of the roosters in the village make you somtimes feeling rather being on a farm than in the jungle. But it is common that the Iban people hold their roosters and hens directly next to their doors. The meals provided at the lodge where better than we did expect. You will be provided breakfast and dinner. In case you are on a trip during the day, a barbecue will be provided.
Best thing to do in the park is exploring the forest. We went out for several walks during our stay. You always watch out for wildlife, which is really hard to spot in the dense forest.
After the first night in the lodge, we started our tour directly at the village. From there our guide took us through the forest, caoutchouc and rice and pepper fields. We have been pretty shocked seeing burnt forest with now rice or pepper being planted. The guide explained this a a very normal behavior of the local people, regularly burning forests to increase the income for the family. Another thing we did not expect in such remote areas, where you await clean and original jungle, is the degree of pollution, taking place even out there. Plastic waste seems to be an issue everywhere on the world, also in the jungle with very few people living at.
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